Sunday, January 31, 2010

Winter in the Cinque Terre


During summer, southern Liguria basks in all of its flashy glory. Between May and September, the sea, the heat and all of the activity make it one of the most lovely and enjoyable spots to be in Italy. The summery Cinque Terre is the beauty queen of the northern Italian coast, the sweetheart- lovable without even really having to put out an effort.
Winter, however, catches the area without its makeup; the trees are bare, the restaurants are closed, the streets are silent and the beaches are laden with driftwood brought in by winter storms. This time of year, the Cinque Terre really shows you what it's made of.
It's maybe during this season that you really learn to love the hills, the trees and all that the woods offer. The sea is cruel in winter, cold and rough. In winter, the Cinque Terre returns to the land.
The Cinque Terre were originally agricultural communities, the first inhabitants arriving from the Vara Valley and searching for an area suitable for growing their grapevines and olive trees. During that period, the sea was a dangerous and unpredictable threat. It was not until much later that the people of the Cinque Terre started having a comfortable relationship with the sea.
Even today, most people of the Cinque Terre feel more comfortable on dry land, in silence, in the woods or in their olive groves, vineyards and vegetable gardens.
Winter is bittersweet for me. I love the quiet and solitude of the winter months but live in happy anticipation of the spring and summer to come. I hike much more during the winter and enjoy being able to appreciate calmly the countryside.
The Cinque Terre is wonderful to get to know during these slow months. The locals are more willing to get to know you, the trails are free and the towns revert back to how they once were. No, you won't readily find gelato or great nightlife- but you will find some of the most beautiful nature you will ever see- and you'll have the time and space to enjoy it.

Trail markers on my hike today-


Promise of spring:



The trail above our home in Fontona



2 comments:

kBlog said...

Hi Kate, your blog is nicely done and the pictures are great. I have not been active in mine for a while, maybe this will inspire me to get busy. Ann and I still want to return, but who probably wouldn’t? We'll put it together someday. Keep up the good work.

Kate said...

Thanks Ron- I certainly hope that you all do make it back here!

Fontona?

Where's Fontona? Fontona is a small village between Monterosso al Mare and Levanto, Italy. After living for 18 years in the historic center of Monterosso in the Cinque Terre, we decided to pack up and move to the countryside. We are less than 15 minutes from the main piazza of Monterosso but far away from the crowds.
Not much goes on in Fontona, Mass on Sundays and sometimes the Boy Scout troop hikes by. We are content to wait for the spring violets, spot our resident hawks and decide what to make for dinner.